Rolled Up Sleeves
This section was made to show how I have made some
rolled up sleeves for my Gebirgsjager radioman figure. To get the sleeves as I
want I have had to
cut them down, because the tunic sleeves bulked out too much and made them too
tight around the arms. Plus I also wanted the shirt sleeves rolled up under the
jacket as well. Picture 1. shows the shirt
sleeves that I have on the figure, with the rolled up jacket sleeves over them.
To get the shirt sleeves to look right in Picture 2. I have marked them with a pencil, I then
cut them just below the mark.
In Picture 3.
I placed some double sided tape on the sleeve, once in place I removed the
backing paper so that in Picture 4. I can
fold up the material and keep it in place. With the sleeves now shortened there
is less material to bulk out under the jacket arms, plus my reason for measuring
the shirt sleeves first is that hopefully when the jacket arms are rolled up. I
can have the thin folded edge of the shirt sleeves showing out under the jacket.
Note: For my figure I have stuck the
material edge down on the outside of the shirt, as it will not be seen under the
jacket. But if you want a neater edge for the shirt, it can be turned inside
out, and the edge stuck down as above so it is inside the shirt.
With the tunic I wanted to use with my figure, I
tried to roll up the sleeves as it is with the full arm length. I found that
this does work, but it makes the material very bulky, as well as being tight on the
top of the arms it also looks out of scale. In the picture on the right I
have a comparison with rolling up the sleeves, A
is the full length sleeve with the material very tight around the arm.
B is the same sleeve after I have cut off
some of the material and then rolled it up, the result with having less material
to use is that as shown the tunic is a lot looser than before. Plus I also get
a better effect of a rolled up sleeve.
above is the original sleeve and Picture 6.
is where I have cut off some of the material. Note:
Be careful after the sleeve has been cut as the seam may come apart and start to
unravel, so it may need a couple of stitches to hold it together. Also try not
to pull or trim too many loose threads until the sleeves have been rolled up.
Picture 7. is
where I have rolled the sleeve up and Picture 8.
shows the tunic on the figure, with the shirt showing underneath it. Which I have
also pulled down with my tweezers, so that each one just shows.
Tony Barton Resin Arms
10. 11. 12.
I noticed one common thing with all of my figures
is that they all have the arms covered up, so for something different I bought a set of the arms made by
Tony Barton. As shown above
in Picture 9. they are well detailed
and only need a minimum of work to remove some mould lines and excess resin.
Note: As with most resin items they have to
be washed in soapy water first, to remove any mould release agent before
Picture 10. is of the Dragon Neo 2 body that
I am using to convert the arms on, the hardest part I have found with doing this
is working out where to make the cut to fit the new arms. It also shows
how I have marked the arms where the sleeves come to in
Blue, that way I can cut through
the arms on the second mark above it in Red, so that
the join will be hidden by the sleeves.
In italics below are Tony's instructions on
how to fit the arms:
I recommend fitting them to the figure by :~
1) saw through the bicep.
2) fill the hole with epoxy.
3) once hard, file that flat, then drill.
4)drill the arm to the same diameter, and fit a pin.
I use 3/32” brass rod.
So now the arm can be rotated or changed at will.
11. shows the body after I have committed
myself and made the cuts to the arms. Picture 12.
shows where I am test fitting one of the arms, to see what the it
would look like after I have fixed it to the body.
As shown in Picture 13. the arm is supposed
to rotate at the joint in Green, and I found
that when I filled the holes with
Milliput I started to lose
Picture 14. shows the arms after I have
added some putty to fill the gap in them, making sure that I fill the gap
completely, plus as it dried I twisted the arms to keep the movement. Picture 15.
is after I have sanded the resin arms flat, so that it matches as near as possible
the arms on the body so
the gap is as small as possible. I have also drilled the arms and inserted some
copper pins which are a very tight fit into the holes.
17. 18. 19.
In Picture 16.
after sanding each of the arms flat, I have used my model knife to make a pilot
hole in each arm, this is to make the drilling of the holes easier as I know
that they are centred. Picture 17. shows how
the right arm has been fitted by pushing the arm and pin into the body, again
this is a tight fit to make sure that the arm stays in place.
shows how I have posed the left arm so that with my radio man kitbash, it can
hold the microphone. Picture 19. shows what
both arms look like on the body, plus I also found that the arms can be rotated
to enable me to pose the arms. The picture on the right shows how I have now
fitted the shortened shirt and tunic back onto the body, and by planning where
the arm has to be cut in Picture 10. The gap
between the body and resin arms has been covered up, so once the arms have been
painted hopefully they will match the headsculpt.
In these pictures I have painted the arms with an
experiment of artists acrylic Flesh colour, Model Color Transparent Red, Yellow and Burnt
Umber acrylic paints. To try to get the arms to match the colour of the
headsculpt, I mixed them together various times to get different Flesh shades
until I found one I was happy with. Pictures 20. 21.
& 22. show how I got the Flesh colour
slightly too light, so I repainted the arms again and in Picture
23. A is
the lighter arms and B is them again with a
slightly darker shade of paint on them. Picture 24.
is after I have given the arms and head a light wash of Brown pastel chalk and
when dry a drybrush of some Flesh pastel chalks.
I found a post on the
Sixth Army Group forum by T.H.A.W about
how he has used some small Brads (Split Pins) to make a cord on a German cap, in the same
post he mentions about using the brads on shoulder boards.
So I experimented with the 3mm one's I bought on
Fred Aldous, the packaging is above in Picture 25.
As a comparison I have placed one of the brads on the left in Picture
26. next to a Dragon nut and bolt to show
the sizes. Picture 27. shows one of the
brads on a Dragon uniform holding a shoulder board in place.
shows the Dragon nut and bolt in place inside the tunic, with the problem I have
always have of the bolt making the tunic stand up too high on the shoulder.
But on the right is the inside of the tunic again,
this time with the pins of the brad spread out which lays flatter on the figure's
shoulder. This then makes the whole uniform lay better without the lump that the
nut and bolt had. Note: I am not worried
colour of the brads, as I will most likely repaint
them before fitting them with either Field Grey or Aluminium enamel paint depending on the rank of the
German Rank Shoulder Boards
Another experiment I have made is regarding
combining some Dragon shoulder boards, with the rank insignia from a Toys City
set. My reason for doing this, is that I have found that Dragon makes the best
basic shoulder board. And Toys City makes the best mass produced woven rank for an officer.
shows the plain Dragon shoulder board, with the edge of it I have re-painted Green for
the Gebirgsjager regiment. Picture 30. is
the removed woven insignia part of the Toys City shoulder board, which I have
carefully peeled off of the shoulder board.
Picture 31. is
the Toys City rank placed on some double sided tape, which I very carefully cut
around so that I can stick it onto the Dragon shoulder board once I have
removed the backing paper. In the picture on the right I have fitted the adapted
shoulder board to a tunic, held in place with one of the brads which needs to be
Shovel & Rifle Support
This item came about after I saw a German sniper
training film, in which a soldier has adapted a folding shovel so that he could
use it as a support for his sniper's rifle. I have taken two screenshots from
the film below, Picture 32. shows the wire
hook that has been added to the handle, and in Picture
33. how the rifle is supported once the shovel end is in the ground.
To replicate this I have used a DiD folding
shovel, with a hole drilled through the wooden handle so I can put some brass
wire through it. I first cut a length of the wire which I then folded it in
half, the rounded end was then squashed flat together then wrapped around a
paintbrush to make the loop. The wire was twisted around itself to strengthen
the loop, I then put the other two ends of the wire through the hole in the
shovel handle, and bent them back around the handle. The ends were again twisted
around the wire in front of the loop to make it all tight on the handle, with
the excess wire cut off.
Once I was happy with the shape I wanted, I wrapped the
loop in thin strips of masking tape in Pictures 34.
& 35. to get the look as shown in Picture 32.
I then painted the wire with enamel Gunmetal paint, and the loop with some Brown
acrylic paint. Pictures 36. &
37. show how the rifle is supported on the
Sniper Face Mask
This is another item that I have made. based on
another screenshot I have taken from the German sniper training film. In the
picture on the right, it looks like the soldier has obtained a camouflaged piece
of material, which he has adapted to fit over his head to conceal his face.
I liked the look of this so I just had to make
something similar for my sniper figure. I first cut out a large square shape
from a tissue to get the rough size for the face veil. Making sure that it would
wrap around the face and cover the ears, as well as the collar of the tunic. The
purpose of this is to break up the shape of the head. I then laid this onto a
spare Wehrmacht zeltbahn I have, marked it and then cut out the shape.
Note: I only
have a Heer Splinter camouflage zeltbahn here at the moment, but this method
should also work with any SS camouflage zeltbahn material as well. As this would
be a 'home made' or 'field' item, so as I see it there is a lot of leeway
allowed in what it would look like.
I then sewed two lengths of thin elastic to each
side of the material, so that they will hold the mask over the face of the
figure. Once I had centred the mask so that both ears are covered, I marked
where the eyeholes need to go. I made two small holes with my model knife, and
then with a piece of rolled up sandpaper I enlarged the holes to look like the
ragged shapes as shown on the right.
took a bit of trial and error to get right. As several times I had to I enlarge
the holes slightly, put the mask on the figure to check if I could see the eyes,
took it back off, enlarged the holes a bit more, put it back on the figure. Before I was finally happy that both ears were
covered, plus I could also see the eyes through the holes.
shows the front of the mask on a figure, along with a similarly camouflaged M43
cap. Picture 39. shows the back of the mask,
with the unpainted elastic straps. Pictures 40.
& 41. show the sides of the mask and how it
blends into the cap, covering the ears and the neck and the profile of the head.
Heer Winter Suit
Weathering about the chalk pastel colours I use for getting the result
The pictures above
& 43. are of how I have tried to get away from the new look for the mask and cap, so I
have ground up some Brown pastel chalks using my sanding pad. Similar to the way
I did it for my headsculpt pastel
washes. Then after applying some water to the pad, I applied the pastel/water
mix to the items, varying the mixture between some thick pastel mix into the
stitching, and some diluted pastel mix to discolour the rest of the items.
the items were drying, I gently wiped over each item with a tissue to remove the
colour from the raised areas. Once all of the items were dry, I then gave each of
them a drybrush of some Light Sand weathering powders as in pictures
44. & 45.
So that the raised areas were highlighted, with
the darker colour left in the recesses.
Like I have done with both my
Heer smock weathering,
I have applied the oil pastel to the bottom edge of the face mask in Picture
46. I also did it in Picture
47. to the bottom edge of the cap and centre of the peak, to add extra
weathering to simulate ground in dirt.
I then rubbed along the edges between my fingers, to push the pastel chalks into
the cloth material, which at the same time gives it a shiny look.
A reference picture is on the right I found in a
book I have of an SS soldier using a 'field modified' mask.
This section is continued on Page
Many thanks to Tony Barton at
Antheads for his permission
to use the pictures on this page.
Many thanks to T.H.A.W for his
idea about using brads for German shoulder boards.