To My Hans Ebner Figure Page.
This page is about how I have made my German Hans
Ebner figure, this one came about after I wanted a replacement
for my DML Albert figure I had but traded off. So after thinking about this for
a while, and then realising that the figure is hard to get hold off. I finally
found one of the DiD Hans figures courtesy of Forgotten Soldier.
As the uniform is a reversible set I used the
white side of it, as I want the figure to look like a German soldier operating
on the Russian front. I am very impressed with the way that the uniform has been
made, as a choice of
figures can be made from the one boxed set.
Below left, is the Hans headsculpt, which I have
repainted with Model Colour Matt Medium to remove the gloss appearance of the
headsculpt. Which has unfortunately made the eyes really stand out and look toy
like. I am hoping a wipe over the head with a pastel chalk wash will remove
The picture above right of the boots, shows them
after I have given them a coat of Dullcote to lose the shine from the material.
One major annoying thing I have found out about this figure so far is, that with
these boots the figure is constantly falling forward. I think this is due to the
lack of support from the boots around the ankle, due to the felt part that has
been used. To get around this I have used the same tape I have used for my other
figures, to tape up the ankles and to bulk them out a bit. As result I have had
no more problems with the figure falling over.
Rifle Sling Assembly
This part of the boxed figure did surprise me, as
I expected the sling to be already part of the rifle. So after a little bit of
thought, I have assembled it as follows. Picture left above (A),
I have taken the sling apart so that it is one long strip of material, and then
threaded it through the sling loop at the front of the rifle. Then back through
the sling adjuster and then threaded it through the stock as above (B).
This is where I found this became interesting, as you have to 'lock' the strap
in place on the stud (C), and also thread
the sling end under the lug (D). All I can
say is take your time doing this, as the material for the sling can easily be
broken. I am also thinking that the sling may be too long as it is, and I may
shorten it slightly, because with the adjuster fully against the stock there is
still too much slack.
Pictures of the actual rifle and sling are here -
Boots And Gaiters
Although I have not used the boots and gaiters
that came with this figure, I think it might help others if I point out how I
have used the gaiters on my other Kurt Dorr figure. Because the boots are like
these one's, I found that they would not allow me to tighten up enough the
gaiters. So I replaced them with a pair of DML
Dietrich Koppe boots, as they have laces and they
can be tightened up better at the top.
But, if I was to use these boots, where I have
indicated in the picture right (A), I would
make a small 'V' shaped cut to allow me to close the top of the boot up further.
Note: Make sure that you don't cut too far
down, in case it shows from under the gaiter. Once, it was on the figure, I
would then tie some strong thread to pull the top tight onto the figure's leg.
With my Kurt Dorr figure I then put the gaiter around the boot top and sewed the
ends together, this way I got the tightness of the gaiter around the boot top.
Once I was happy that I had the gaiter in the
right place and tight enough, I then fastened the buckles and the straps and
trimmed the ends to make them look neat. The purpose of sewing the ends of the
gaiter together, is that the thread takes the strain from the tightening, not
the buckle straps as they are not strong enough to hold it in place and they
With this figure I could not decide which head
covering to use, as I also wanted the parka hood over the helmet. So I finally
made up my mind to use the white hood over the head, but then came a problem.
As the hood fits ok, but the helmet won't because
of the pad that fits inside it with the chin straps. So to get the figure as I
want it, I test fitted the helmet without the padding inside, and I think it
fits well with what I wanted. So now I have to take the straps off the padding,
and fix them inside the helmet shell somehow.
Below are some pictures as I want the figure to be
posed with the MG42 weapon, and as usual with me I have loaded him up with as
much kit as possible. The machine gun is the one I had sitting around from my
Kurt Dorr figure along with the pouch and the ammunition can.
Another thing I have changed is the gloves, as I
just didn't like the large white gloves I had on the figure. So I swapped them
out for the Kurt one's. These came in very useful actually, as it allowed me to
pose the hand wrapped around the gun and grip the ammunition can properly.
One thing I never realised until now is, just how
dirty the white uniforms got in service as shown in the pictures above.
This will be a challenge to me with trying to
replicate this, and I have to also add some kind of whitewash to the black
straps and belt equipment.
I did some experimenting today with the MG42 that
I want this figure to carry, as I was looking for something to add the whitewash
to the weapon. I was thinking of paint, but I was worried that it would end up
too thick on it, so I tried my Tamiya Snow powder on it. The result of it is
I was going to use some type of paint to get this
effect, but I am glad that I used these powders first. Because, I was trying to
get the effect of a camouflaged gun with a winter whitewash. But not the heavy
look that paint can give it, as I was thinking that in real life if it is too
heavy it could gum up the works. Note: One
thing that I have just thought about after doing this, is that I have not added
any Gunmetal effects to the gun. As with all my model weapons, I give them a
drybrush of Gunmetal paint to emphasise the edges and wear points first. But,
thinking about the whitewash camouflage, it would cover that up anyway, so this
will teach me to get carried away.
This is the belt kit I have decided to use with
the figure, and I have given it a basic wipe over with the Snow powder and I am
quite impressed with the results. It will have to be touched up again once it is
all on the figure, as it comes off when I touch it. Below right is the cloth
pouches for this figure, and I have found that they take the powder very well,
especially along the seams.
The pictures below are of the pastel wash that I gave
the standard head as it comes from out of the box, the picture below left is
with the pastel chalk mixed with some water, and just brushed over the head.
Making sure that I get it into all the creases of the face and especially the
eyes. The second picture is of the partially dried chalk being wiped off gently with a
damp tissue, this is to remove most of the chalk from the highlights of the
head. Note: Try not to rub too hard on the
face as this can create a shine on the original paint.
Once that was dry, I gave the head a very light,
very thinned down wash of Model Colour 908 Carmine Red, to give the face a
slight pink tint. This was also applied to the eyes, to darken off the bright
white colour of the eyes. The third picture below right, shows the finished
head once it has dried and a light drybrush of a cream coloured chalk applied
over the highlights of the face. I also made sure that the chalk was rubbed into
the eyes to remove the toy like appearance as seen from the pictures above. All
the head needs now, is a drop of clear gloss varnish on the pupils of the eyes
to make them shiny.
What I use to get the pastel chalk dust is a foam
sanding pad, all I do as in the picture below left is rub the pastel chalk onto
the pad and then add some water to it. This then gives me the 'mix' I need to do
the pastel wash on the head. To do the drybrush to lighten the highlights, all I
do is again rub the pastel onto the pad, pick it up dry with a brush and lightly
rub it onto the face. Note: I have found out
by trial and error, that sometimes the lighter pastel chalk can add too much of
a highlight. And it is not until I photograph the headsculpt do I realise it, so
now I do the drybrush, take a picture and see what the effect is like and add or
remove as necessary.
Update - An
update to the pastel wash is on this page -
This is my finished figure as the gunner would
have looked like on the Russian front, I made the armbands out of paper which I
painted blue and weathered. I then cut two small slots at each end for the
buttons to go through. The white uniform was dirtied up with the Tamiya powders
along the seams, knees, elbows, pockets and the jacket bottom.
Finally, I did a touch up with the Snow powder to
the straps, as some of it came off when I was assembling the figure.
This section is about how I have had to repair my
Hans Ebner figure.
And I am annoyed at the loose
joints on DiD figures. Because of a result of them, the weight of the nude
figure and the metal ammo clips in
the pouch, this figure constantly shelf dived on me. And after trying numerous
times to try to solve this problem, with taping up the ankle joints, the knee
joints became weaker because of the weight. Which caused the figure to sag
downwards, putting even more pressure on the ankle joints.
So this picture is the end result of trying to get
the legs in the right position, one broken off foot. So to say that I am upset
about this is an understatement. So now I have one useless DiD figure with a
broken off foot, a wrecked figure and I have just done about 2 days of work
trying to repair this. All because of the weight of the nude figure, metal helmet, MP44 ammo clips in the
pouch and the MG42 ammo belt, which caused too much weight to be placed on the
already weak joints.
I have included a picture above right of the broken
parts, and the piece of plastic that is used to hold the two parts together.
Note: I have not modified this figure in any
way, apart from using the Duct Tape, to try to re-enforce the joints.
The figure has now been repaired, as I changed the
head with a spare Corbin Black figure I have, and I found that the ankle and
knee joints needed no taping up at all. And the figure stands exactly as I have
posed him with no problem, so the weak joints must have been a fault with that
one Ebner body I hope.