To My DiD/DML Hand/Head Swop Page.
Headsculpt Changes Hand Changes Fist Grip Hands
Soldier Story Hands
This page is one that I have meant to do for ages,
but I have only just remembered about it after having to about change both a pair of hands
and a DiD head. I can't recall where I learned this from, but I must have been
from a clever person somewhere.
As with a lot of the
kitbashes I have made recently, the headsculpts that I prefer to use a lot of
the time are the DiD one's, combined with a thinner Dragon Neo 2 type of body.
But the problem in doing this is that I have to convert the DiD head to fit the
Dragon body frame.
Note: To remove a head from a body, I have found that if I put the
moulded head into a cup of hot water for about a minute, it helps to get the
head off the neck mounting. Also, once it is off leave it aside for a coupe of
minutes to cool down, that way there should be no distortion or damage to the
Important Note: Do NOT use the
hot water with the DiD hairy heads, as I have found that the water causes the
hair to fall out, because it removes the glue. Instead try using a hairdryer, to
warm these heads up at the neck joint to loosen them enough to remove them.
In the pictures above I have shown how to convert
the DiD head. The first picture above left is the inside of a standard Dragon
head, the next picture is of the inside of a standard DiD head. The next two
pictures show a Dragon neck mounting along with a DiD neck mounting, and as you
can see the DiD head will not fit onto the Dragon neck mount. So to combine the
two, I have had to use my model knife to carefully cut away the inside of the
DiD head, so that it will fit tightly onto the Dragon neck mounting.
Note: This has
to be done very carefully and slowly, removing a little at a time to widen the
hole in the neck, making sure that you check that the head will gradually fit
onto the Dragon neck post. In the last picture above right, I have the DiD head
mounted onto the Dragon body, which if done right will be a tight fit as the
head and neck joint closes up when you push the head into place.
The process is quite simple, as all you have to do
is remove the pins from each wrist joint on the figures.
Note: Making sure that you keep each pair of pins apart. As I have
found that they are different sizes (diameters), and if they get mixed up it can
cause problems putting them back together again.
These are the pairs of hands in the picture, the
DiD hands on the left and the DML one's on the right. In the picture below, I am
removing the pin from the wrist joint on the DiD hand.
This is just a case of using a pointed object like
tweezers to push out the pin.
In the next picture below right, I have removed
all of the pins and separated all of the parts. As I have said above make sure
that you don't get the pins mixed up, as you can just see that the DML one's are
The picture below left shows the DML hand being
inserted into the DiD wrist joint Note:
Sometimes I have found that I have to trim the middle part of the hand down on
the side. As it may be too tight to fit into the DiD part. The next pair of
pictures show the DiD pin being put back into place. You also may have to
wriggle the hand to get the pin through.
To complete this page, this shows how the DiD hand
is put into the DML wrist joint, again it is similar to the instructions above.
The difference here is that you have to push and hold the hand into the wrist
joint, to make sure that the holes line up. Note:
Because as I have said that the DML pin is slightly bigger, you have to wriggle
the hand about a bit to get the pin through the hole in the hand.
Below are the completed DiD/DML hands, and below
right are the DML hands I used for my figure. The DML hands came in very handy
with my Bayonet diorama, because the DML hands on my German figure can grip the
DiD rifle better which in turn helped me to get the pose I wanted.
Fist Grip Hands
With my German Pioneer kitbash I wanted the figure to carry
a bag full of explosives, I have packed it out with the blocks and padding to make it
look full, but then came the problem of making it look heavy enough. It was then
that I found on eBay the fist hands as shown below left sold by
Black Ash 1/6th Kit, so I decided to buy two pairs of the hands to see if I
could use them.
The next two pictures show how the fist hand
compares to the DiD hand I was going to use. The only three problems that I found
I had were firstly the peg for the arm had to have the wide end at the top
sanded so that the peg is straight, a hole had to be very carefully drilled in the fist so it
could hold the bag strap. And both the fist and the other DiD hand had to be
painted with some Flesh acrylic paint, so that they both match. Plus they both
had to have a Brown pastel wash applied to them.
In the pictures above I have firstly cut the carry
strap in half, so that each end can fit into the hole that I drilled. I then got
some thread and sewed it to one end of the carry strap, pushed it through the
drilled hole into the carry strap on the other side as shown in the picture
above left. The next picture shows a bigger picture of the bag, the next two
pictures show the fist hand once I have sewn both halves together and tied off
the thread. The final picture above right shows the finished hand which has been
plugged into the arm socket.
Soldier Story Hands
These pictures are of the Soldier Story figure
that I have just received, and how I have tried to see how the Dragon hands
would work with this body. And I was pleasantly surprised to see as shown above
left, that the Dragon wrist pin is almost the same size as the Soldier Story
wrist pin. In the two pictures in the middle above, these show a Dragon wrist
pin connected to a DiD hand, which has been fitted to the Soldier Story wrist.
The final picture above right, shows the fist hand fitted to the wrist joint.