Welcome To My British Sniper Page.

This is a figure that has been on my planning list for quite a while now, ever since I first saw the re-enactor below at Detling in 2007. And how the pictures I took of him, could be used as a guide for kitbashing a DML Wes Worthy figure.

In the picture above right where the gentleman is trying not to laugh, this was caused by another re-enactor commenting behind me about my previous photograph of his boots. And he said I think something along the lines of "Be careful as he has a boot fetish..." As I had just photographed his boots to get the detail. Note: The things I do for this hobby.... Many thanks goes to the Royal Norfolk Re-Enactment group for these pictures.


The main reason that my interest has been rekindled in this figure, is the excellent uniform re-painting tutorial that has been done by Tony Barton and this page on smocks.  Before he did this lesson, I was always in two minds about kitbashing a British sniper figure since I had read so much about how the colours on the windproof suit were wrong, and seeing as how he makes the uniform painting look so easy, I wondered if I could make a sniper figure like this. Plus in making this figure like this, it has taken me back to my days of painting 1:35th scale figures. But the problem I had then was that I could never get the camouflage uniforms right, so this time I wanted to try it again but on a 1/6th scale figure instead.


The picture on the right is of the re-painted uniform by Tony, and I am hoping that by following his painting technique I may end up with a similar figure. But for mine I want to have the trouser colours slightly lighter than the jacket, as these may have been washed more than the coat.


This is the Wes Worthy headsculpt which has been given a pastel wash of a lighter brown than I usually give the figures, this has been done twice to add the shading, once that was dry I then used a red pastel chalk scrubbed into the face to add the colour to the cheeks. This was then blended in with a wet paintbrush, left to dry slightly and then wiped off.

Once this was dry I then gave the head another light wash of the brown pastel chalk, I again wiped it off and then used a large bristled brush to blend all the colours together while the head was still slightly wet. When the head was completely dry I gave it a drybrush of a cream chalk to add the highlights. I then used a small wet paintbrush to remove the chalk from the eyes and lips.

Uniform Painting

The pictures below are of the uniform from the boxed figure, which I have laid out with some cardboard inside as instructed by the tutorial so that the painting of the patterns is easier. One thing I did find a slight difficulty with is where the Beige colour had to be hand brush painted on, and after looking at both pictures on Tony's tutorial, I have made up the picture on the right below.

The colours for the uniform re-paint are shown on Tony's colour chart above right, for the first colour I made up some Beige as instructed. This will be used to paint over the top of the sandy Khaki colour as shown on the uniform above.

Update: Camouflage Mismatch On Sleeves and Panels

Another thing I forgot to add, if you look at the original tunic above, is the clear pattern mismatch on the front of the smock panels and trouser legs. This adds to the whole camouflage effect, and I can now see why Tony said it is best to hand paint the colour replacements, as you need to keep this mismatch.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

1. This is a smock left shoulder to sleeve sewn joint, 2. Is the smock right to sleeve sewn joint, 3. Is the bottom front sewn panels.

Pictures 4. & 5. show the pattern mismatch on the pockets. Note: I can admit that it can become tiresome painting this all by hand, but the effect is worth the effort. Also the light coloured stitches can be replicated as well, by the use of a drybrush of some Tamiya Light Sand weathering powder.

Uniform Painting - 1st Colour

Update: I have forgotten to add the following on to this page. I believe that I was told by Tony Barton, about how he uses some board to hold the tunic to shape. Which I have found makes the re-painting of the colours a lot easier, as the camo pattern has less creases in it.

So I have cut some cardboard, which I fitted inside the tunic and trousers below, so that the tunic is held in place as above. Which I have found makes the whole re-painting exercise a lot easier, plus by having the cardboard stick out the bottom and the sleeve as well, I can hold the tunic by these ends rather than leave fingerprints on the wet tunic.


Note: I recommend using only one device like a camera to photograph something like this, because as shown here. I got a different result indoors using my mobile phone above and my camera below. Also take the pictures outside in daylight, so that you will have a constant White Balance setting on the camera.

My Uniform Paint Colour Mistake

I have finally found out what I have done wrong with this figure. I bought the wrong shade of Taupe paint for the base colour for the uniform, because in the picture on the right I bought the Inscribe Taupe paint instead of the Liqutex one as I could not find a supplier for the correct paint.


And when I added the white to it, it then ended up almost like the colour on the far right Inscribe Fawn. Which is a far cry from the correct colour as used by Tony, as shown at the bottom of the picture.


So over the last two days I have mixed together various combinations of paint and have finally made up a colour near to the one from Tony, and have repainted the uniform again as below.


The above pictures show the uniform re-painted by hand with a brush, which has allowed me to follow the pattern so that I could have the thin lines of the Green showing through. Although with them the camera has brightened the colours slightly as I have taken them indoors. But in reality the paint colour is a lighter version of the original Khaki colour as the uniform came from the box. Note: One thing I did use when I was mixing up the paint was use some Acrylic Flow Improver as shown on the right. This is another tip told to me by Paul, and it a very good one, as this is like a thinner for acrylic paint. It has to be diluted in water and then added to the paint, I found it is a lot better than using just water because it makes the paint thin enough to use. Plus it does not allow the paint to dry out too quickly. (Hobbycraft sell this)

Uniform Painting - 2nd Colour

The second colour was again made up according to the colour chart above, and then applied in a random pattern over the top of the uniform. With this pattern I may have got it wrong, as it is my best guess at what it would look like, based on some pictures I have seen.



Uniform Painting - Distressing The Uniform

This is the tunic after I have given it a rub over with some fine emery paper, as instructed in the tutorial.

Important Note: Make sure that you use very fine USED emery cloth or sandpaper to do this, because I found that if you use anything else it will remove too much of the paint and pattern. Note: Also make sure that you do the sanding on a small piece at a time, making sure that you hold the material completely flat. Otherwise you will cause creases and sand too much off the top of it, and you will end up with a plain line in the pattern. Which may have to be re-painted again.


With the trousers, I have sanded the patches on the knees slightly more that the rest of them. This is to show more of the wear here, to make it look like the uniform has been in use for a while where the soldier would have been kneeling down. The same effect has been used on the seat of the trousers and the elbows of the jacket.


Another thing I found out regarding distressing the uniform, is to place your finger inside it and then sand the cuffs, trouser bottom edges, pockets and the patch edges slightly heavier. As this adds another more distressed wear effect in these areas.

6.   7.  8.  9.

Note: In picture 6. I put my hands or fingers inside the uniform whilst doing the sanding so that the material was kept flat, and I found that on sanding the Beige paint gently it also helped to remove some of the stiffness of the material. Once I had done this I then gave both the trousers and tunic a wash over with some diluted Brown acrylic paint, making sure they were all covered including the parts I had not painted. As they were drying in picture 7. I scrunched them into a ball in my hands, so that I could soften up the jacket and trousers so that when they dried they have a lot of creases in them. So that when the jacket and trousers have dried fully you can see the difference in them now in pictures 8. & 9. when compared to the pictures of the new uniform at the top of the page above.

Uniform Re-Painting & Assembly

The pictures above show the re-painted uniform on the figure after I had scrunched both the jacket and trousers up into a ball in my hands, to lose some of the stiffness in the material. And I am really surprised at how different the whole thing looks now, as the sanding has really added a worn look to it. Plus it has subdued the red colouring very well, as this really had me worried when I started to paint it on, as it looked far too bright for a camouflage pattern. And it even crossed my mind at one point that I had ruined the whole uniform.


With the bottom of the trouser legs I was going to leave them as they were, but after thinking about it and whether or not to use the gaiters on this figure. I decided to cut off the button at the bottom, and then sew them tighter using the second button position as supplied. As this gave me a nice gathered effect at the bottom of the trousers, without having to use the gaiters. The boots I have replaced with a pair of the DiD Michael Taylor one's as I prefer the laced boots to the plastic one's. I also replaced the hands with a spare pair of DiD one's, as the detail is better plus they can grip the rifle easier.


Another point that has just sprung to mind is with the folds in the uniform, where the shadows and highlights show up with the pattern. Because this was one of the main problems I had with 1:35th model figures, in that I could never get those right.


The picture here shows the rifle that the re-enactor had with him, and I am hoping that I will be able to replicate this with some fine hessian material, similar to the rifle that I used with my Falklands figure.


In the pictures below I have cut out some thin ragged strips of hessian material, looking at how other modellers have done this I realised that the material has to be a close weave, so as to keep it in scale. This is then wound around the rifle to break up the outline, making sure that the trigger, magazine, sling swivels and telescopic sights are still accessible. Once I had the wrap around the rifle I then tied it in place with some brown thread.


Making sure that when I make the knot at the start of the thread winding's I leave a long end on it, this is so that when I come back to the knot again I have something to tie the thread off to. I then tie the ends together and cut them off just above the second knot. Note: Remember this is meant to be tight around the rifle, but the more untidy you can make it the better, as it helps to remove the rifle's silhouette. The pictures below show the hessian with some diluted acrylic brown paint and a drybrushing of some Mud weathering powders.



With this figure and the equipment he would have had it has been assembled with a little bit of Modeller's Licence, since I can find very little information on the subject. So with this figure he has a webbing set to carry the pouches, and I have used a pair of the cross straps over his shoulders held in front with a pair of brace extenders.


As I think he would not have used the front ammunition pouches as it would have got in the way when he was lying down. Also he must have had to have a shovel of some kind, plus some weapons for self defence as well.


The equipment and webbing shown right has come from various sources, and it all has had a repaint with some Green acrylic paint. Then to add some variety and different colours to it all, it has been rubbed over with some of the Tamiya Light Sand Weathering powders to indicate wear and age. All the brass buckles were painted green with some acrylic paint.

Figure Assembly

This is the finished figure with a sort of ghillie suit stuffed into his backpack, this was made from some roughly cut fine hessian material and painted with various colours of acrylic paint. The strips were then laid over the camouflage cloth that came with the figure, rolled up tight and tied with some string and put under the backpack flap. Note: The wrapping on the rifle butt was removed and then re-wrapped with less material, as it was pointed out to me that as I had it before was wrong.

As was pointed out to me, I forgot to add the dirt to the face and to get a better picture I took these outside. Because I was getting too much shine on the face when I took it indoors.


Many thanks to Tony Barton for his tutorial about repainting the windproofs.


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