Welcome to my Mr Canoehead's Dragon - Jeb Special Version Review Page.

This is a tutorial from MrCanoehead about how to fit the DML Jeb parachute, I used this to fit the parachute onto my Soldat 2 figure, and as I found this so helpful. I have asked permission for it to be used here. I have also found that came in very handy when I fitted my Corbin Black parachutes. Note: The Italic text below is from Mr Canoehead.

Note: This tutorial can be also applied to the Corbin Black figure, as it helped me with my models.

And this is not my work, I have just included it along with the updates on my pages to help my fellow modellers.

How to hook up Jeb's parachute

These steps were made by my observation of the rig from an Osprey military book  and with close inspection of the chute itself, I have not verified if this is totally correct, but don't think its far off.  

Please note: The additions below regarding fitting the reserve parachute and the Mae West Vest.

Parachute Update

I have been informed of an error in this tutorial. In Step 5 it shows the reserve chute attached to the parachute straps by the hooks. But what it fails to show, is that the belly band goes through the loops on the back of the reserve chute to hold it in place. This is something that I have often wondered about with my figures, because to me the reserve seemed to 'flap about' with only the hooks connected. But after receiving some excellent advice from USMCPrice on the Sixth Army Forum, this question has finally been answered.

The pictures above show the belly band going through the spare parachute loops and what it looks like finished.

He also explained in detail about why the reserve chute is connected to the belly band.


I've never jumped a T5 but I have jumped a T7, T10 and MC1-1 and they are all rigged with the belly band through loops on the back of the reserve. I am sure the T5 would have had to be rigged this way also because the two hooks connecting the reserve to the main parachute harness would not be sufficiently strong to support the weight of the jumper and his equipment. When the reserve is deployed it suspends the jumper from his abdomen, belly up with his body parallel to the deck, without the belly band that's a lot of weight and force placed upon two small hooks.

Parachute Usage and Fitting Update

I have just received the following information by e-mail from Joshua about the WW2 US T-5 and T-7 parachute and harness, and because I feel that it is so informative. I have posted it here on this page to hopefully help my fellow modellers. Plus, I would like to thank Joshua for taking the time to share this detailed information with me.

I have studied the T-5/T-7 parachute for years and just thought I would give you a little information. The belly band isn't there to support weight. It's purpose was for keeping the reserve from flapping around, and also worked great to secure equipment. Its attaching seams will not hold very much weight-its sewn with the regular parachute pack thread, about 8 lb. tensile strength. The two reserve hooks/d-rings are plenty strong. They were rated at 5000 pounds. (the original ones were the reg. harness hooks, rated at 2500, but by D-day just about all were the 5000 type).

The hooks will go 8420 pounds to the maximum bend. That's when the hooks would bend far enough for them to come off the ring. The rings have a much high bending strength. That means it can safely take an opening shock of 10,000 lbs, or approx 40 opening g's (at about 40 g's your probably dead). Even in the worst conditions - the reserve opening at 250 feet, 300 lb weight, 1.5 second inflation time, and at terminal velocity the opening shock would only be about 2400 lbs. Normal opening shock would be in the vicinity of 1300 lbs for the reserve, and that's probably a slightly high number. Some troopers on combat jumps cut off the belly band to be able to shed the harness faster.

Also, when the reserve opens, it doesn't suspend the jumper at that much of an angle. Though he isn't suspended vertically like when the main is open, he is still close to vertical, though it isn't very comfortable. This is especially true when there is a heavy load of combat equipment; it pulls the jumper slightly more vertical with all the weight at the bottom. Hope this helps.

Note: Realize though that the opening shock forces have so many variables, so the numbers are not extremely accurate.

Figure assembly update

Note: If you are using a Mae West vest with the paratrooper figure, this goes on before the parachute and the parachute harness straps go over the top of the Mae West vest.


I apologise for not adding this section before, but I was informed incorrectly that the vest went over the parachute. And after it was explained to me how the equipment was worn, I have had to change my figure around. So that the Mae West vest is now under the parachute harness.


Plus I have also learnt from fellow modellers, that the straps did indeed go over the vest. Because thinking of it after it had been explained to me, you would want to ditch the rapidly waterlogging parachute as fast as you can before it dragged you under. And at the same time try to inflate the vest as well to try to keep you afloat, plus try to ditch all the heavy equipment that you were carrying.

Parachute Assembly Instructions

Step 1:  Lay the back part of the chute down (the side that the chute would come out of), and lay out the harness.  

Stick Jeb through the biggest loop so that the  green felt side would go up against his butt and the two straps would fall between his legs.






Step 2:  Now just like Jeb is doing, take the pack and flip it over his shoulders.

Step 2 continued:  Let the back drop down his back, and make sure that the a-shaped part of the strap is behind his head.



Part 2 finished: Here's what it should look like after you've pulled it over his head.


 Part 3: Connect the snap at Jeb's

 chest level.

Step 4 prep: Ok now see those two straps dangling down from the green felt area?  We're going to bring those to the front and give Jeb a wedgey.

Step 4: Take the strap from one side, and bring it to the front.  Connect this strap with the loop on the backpack as shown.


Part 4 close-up:  Notice that the loop which the strap attaches to actually passes through the strap which is going over his shoulders. Open up the two shoulder straps that lead to the shoulder and thread that loop through, then connect the leg strap to it. If Osprey's "US Paratrooper 1941-45" book is illustrated properly, then this is correct. The leg strap can be lengthened if you're having some trouble reaching the loop.


Step 5: After doing up the both leg straps, you can attach the musette bag.  Now I don't know if its supposed to go onto the belly band as shown, but I don't see any other place to put it on, and it seems to hang at the right height there.


Figure assembly update (many thanks to Sean for the help)

Note: I have since found out that the musette bag connects to the webbing straps on the shoulders, because on landing the paratrooper dumps the chute. Then flips the musette bag over the shoulders, so that the straps are facing outwards, behind him. So on the figure, i have the musette bag hanging in front with the straps facing in towards the body.

These steps are for attaching Special Jeb's parachute. Regular Jeb is complete by Step 5.

Step 6: Jeb's chute is going to be threaded through the loops on the upper part of his shoulder straps. Seen here is the loop to thread through, and the parachute that will go through it.

Step 6a: There are two parachute straps on each side of the chute, so decide which ones you want to be on the bottom, and thread that one through the shoulder loop first.

Step 7: Finally, pull on the chute to make sure you have an acceptable amount of leftover material going through the shoulder loops and you're done!

Jeb's Bazooka

The big surprise here is that the bazooka joins together just like the real one! Right now I have it lined up to where they come together.


On the grip side you can see the kind of protruding piece...this piece goes into the loop in the barrel side.

Here is the barrel loop part slipped over the hook in the trigger section (trigger section on bottom now).

Be Careful when fitting the bazooka together, as I found out that the pip on the other end can break off!

At the other end you can just force one end over the other and the two pieces come together snugly.

This is the DML Jeb figure completed, and as I said before I have used this excellent tutorial with my Soldat 2 figure. Because as usual with Dragon they have provided a figure, but no instructions on how to assemble it. Finding this tutorial has saved me hours of work searching the internet, or buying books to try to find out how the parachute is fitted.

Many thanks to Mr Canoehead for this work.

Below are 2 pictures of how I equipped my DML Jeb figure through using this tutorial, and through trial and error.


Since these pictures were taken, I have changed the musette bag so it hangs from the shoulder clips. Also so that it can be flipped onto the figure's back.

These pictures show before and after.



The packed up bazooka fits well on Jeb but I don't think he would have jumped with it.


Many thanks to Mr Canoehead for this tutorial.

And both USMCPrice and Joshua for the information about the parachutes.

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